module 1 - fashion evolution

"slow fashion" "ethical production" new zine idea

• Tim Flanning disusing the great barrier reef
• Stella McCartney sustainable style 
• young consumers are changing the game 
• the younger generation are more conscious about what their buying and the origins of what their buying than any other generation 
• Numerous studies done in the past few years have confirmed that upwards of 65-70 percent of consumers under 35 around the world report that they will choose brands or retailers based on their ethical practices.
• brand 'EverLane'' was one of the first next gen brands to give detailed information about the factories, costs and raw materials sources for its clothing
• Stockholm-based Swedish Stockings has bucked the decline in the hosiery business by making its sheers and tights entirely of eco-friendly recycled yarns and using recycled purified water and renewable energy sources in its closed-loop production system.
• brands such as Levis and Gap have also given transparency into where their clothes are sourced with customers 
• Triangle shirtwaist factory fire - On March 25, 1911, the Triangle Shirtwaist Company factory in New York City burned, killing 145 workers. Those deaths were all immigrants workers predominatly teenage girls who were paid $15 a week working 12 hours a day everyday without any holidays. The conditions were inhumaine and broke many of the fire safety regulations. The factory owners 'Blanck and Harris' even refused to install sprinkles and the hose pipe that they tried to put the fire out with was so old it had rusted up and gone rotten from neglect. The doors to the factory were also all locked up so they couldn't get out or steal anything. Even though this sounds very shocking many migrant workers and workers abroad still work in these awful conditions. 
• what does ethical mean?
• putting the breaks on fast fashion
• the rise of pret a porter (ready to wear) and how that has had a destructive impact on the planets health. 
• Natalie Massenet founded Net-a-Porter in 2000 in London as a website in magazine format for selling designer fashion.
• Ready-to-Wear clothing had been available since the end of the nineteenth century, but it was considered cheap and poorly made.in the twentieth century, with the advance of mass culture and man-made materials, prê-à-porter gained respect and popularized fashion.
• In 1960 was the era of the mass production and the mass consumption was in full swing. In 1960 the Soviet Union launched successfully their first manned  space flight, 1963 , President John F. Kennedy was assassinated. The May Student Uprisings in Paris occurred in 1968, and the first landing on the moon was achieved in 1969. In the midst of such explosive drama, the young generation sought its own distinct mode of expression, and the powerful new American culture was an obvious choice. The voice of the young was heard in the lyrics of British band like the Beatles and their concerns were portrayed in the French cinema movement of “Nouvelle Vague”. Fashion, too, took to presenting fresh and bold emotion. Dresses also caused a stir. In his 1964 Space Age collection, Pierre Cardin unveiled designs for future-oriented dresses shaped  in simple geometric patterns and made of inorganic materials.
• New man-made materials opened up various possibilities for minimal fashion in the trendy futuristic and synthetic styles of the 1960s.
• Yves Saint Laurent, a standard-bearer among young designer, was also extremely sensitive to social trends. He became independent from the House of Dior in 1961, and opened a prêt-à-porter boutique named Saint Laurent River Gauche in 1966, introducing a line of women’s  tailored pants for city wear.
• in the 1960s, society had evolved in such a way that the norms imposed by haute couture had become obsolete. A growing number of women wanted to be able to dress themselves elegantly and affordably.
• On September 26, 1966, Saint Laurent became the first couturier to open a ready-to-wear boutique under his name. Instead of conceiving ready-to-wear as a lower priced version of haute couture, he created a completely separate collection and treated the prototypes with just as much care.